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Waxing Italian
"Jonathan Waxman is back, this time dishing up rustic Italian-bucatini, bacalao, a lemony roast chicken-at the casually hip West Village bistro Barbuto."
By Adam Platt
Like magicians, wildebeests, and professional gamblers, chefs tend to be a peripatetic group. They get bored, they get into disputes with the owner, and before you know it, they’ve packed up their knives and are on the road again. Some high-level chefs manage to find stability in all this flux, and then there are others, like Jonathan Waxman, who seem to revel in it.
